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Hihi Wines - still no laughing matter...
Whether you are a Galapagos finch or a wine producer, Darwin’s theories hold true: find your niche and exploit it. Gisborne’s Hihi Wines are indeed living proof that Darwin was onto something as when Jane and I first encountered Andy Nimmo’s label in 2007, he was producing a handful of wines and selling a couple of hundred cases of them. He now produces a veritable smorgasbord of wines (coming soon - fortifieds including white Port) and sells around 1800 cases. Sales were up 50% last year, undoubtedly a rare and enviable position in today’s market.
Not bad at all for a label that doesn’t send out expensive marketing paraphernalia, and rather than aiming to beat France’s best instead makes wines that its farmers’ market customers want to drink and can actually afford to do so everyday. Hihi also counts amongst its biggest sellers the rather endearingly named eclectic blends, ’Sweet As’ and ‘Lock, Stock and Many Barrels’ – it is hard not to love this label (a previous chardonnay that got the bells and whistles treatment was the Sirius Chardonnay - geddit??). Andy’s niche appears to be easy to drink, uncomplicated (but never bland), sharply priced wine – no wonder he is going from strength to strength.
Hihi is still a tiny operation with only a few hectares of grapes but packed into that is an impressive array of varieties: alongside the usual suspects of chardonnay, gewurztraminer (sited close by the esteemed Vinoptima), merlot and sauvignon blanc, there is also Albarino (1500 plants already in the ground....first crop expected 2012), verdelho (destined for table wine or the white port) and an impressive (or should that be mad?!) fourteen different red varieties: tempranillo, malbec, merlot, pinotage, barbera, syrah, grenache, mourvedre, nebbiolo, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, carmenere and dolcetto. Admittedly a fair whack of these are in place as trials with Andy reporting promising results, especially with the malbec, barbera, syrah, grenache and nebbiolo.
Plans are also afoot in the New Year to develop a sparkling chardonnay – named (naturally) ‘Gizzy Fizzy'. Andy is in charge of all winemaking and viticulture; a busy man one suspects with such an impressive array of varieties to be keeping track of in the vineyard and winery.
Plans are also afoot in the New Year to develop a sparkling chardonnay – named (naturally) ‘Gizzy Fizzy'. Andy is in charge of all winemaking and viticulture; a busy man one suspects with such an impressive array of varieties to be keeping track of in the vineyard and winery.I had to wonder how he decides what to produce with this bewildering selection from which to choose. Andy explained that he reviews his wines regularly via customer feedback and sales to see if it makes sense to produce them long term – most of this feedback is direct from the very successful Gisborne Farmers’ Market giving him an enviable direct finger on the pulse of his customers. Thus a varietal ebb and flow occurs within the label across the vintages - some likely to be fading out over the next few years (the chardonnay/Viognier blend, and viognier) whilst others will be increasing, including his award-winning gewurztraminer, the local sauvignon blanc (aimed primarily for the Gisborne market, and the best-selling Sweet As (2009 saw 200 cases sold and 450 cases made in 2010) and a number of reds, including pinotage, merlot and some of the more unusual varietals.
I was intrigued to hear of his fortified plans – after all, these are niche wines even in their most famous guises in Portugal and Spain, let along good old Gisborne - and they are a lot of work in the winery, but it seems Andy has indeed discovered another niche… “This has really come about as in my first year of production in 2006 I was gifted some grapes that were slightly green....I decided to take them anyway to learn more about how to deal with unripe red grapes....I ended up putting the wine into a barrel in the corner of the winery, fortifying the wine (with whey spirit) and adding sugar. Two years later we tried the barrel....it was OK so we bottled it as "Ruby" fortified wine....22 cases were made, they were sold in 12 months. I basically realised that it was an opportunity to use up any barrels that did not fit in other blends. Since the first "Ruby" I have released a second version which is now 75% sold. I discovered that there was a gap in market for ports....there are now so few NZ ports available after the hike in excise duty on fortifieds. Hence my interest in learning more via making a vintage port from Pinotage (which is what the South Africans tend to use for their ports) in a more Portuguese methodology (adding the spirit at the end of fermentation retaining natural residual sugar). I am still learning about ports...but it is fun to try. Ironically since my first Ruby was produced three other Gisborne wineries have developed fortified red wines including Kirkpatrick, Stonebridge and Bushmere. I suspect I may have had some influence over their decision to try to develop fortified wines!”
So, gentle reader, you read it here first – natural selection and evolution may indeed yet see to it that Gisborne’s future lies in well-priced, cheerful fortified pinotage, nebbiolo and chardonnay/gewurztraminer blends… All joking aside though, along with many in the New Zealand industry, Gisborne is at a cross roads of sorts and with the recent abdication of one of the biggest purchasers of grapes in the region, many producers are going a similar route to Andy – experimenting with new varieties, establishing more direct contact with their customers and exploiting new niches. Certainly, Andy’s approach makes a refreshing change to those of us somewhat jaded (and frequently underwhelmed) by yet another glamorous label that fails to deliver in substance what it promises in style. Hihi may not be especially glam, and is unlikely to find itself jostling on a world stage with Bordeaux and Burgundy but there is something very satisfying about a range of wines made for people to enjoy on a daily basis that deliver on this with substance plus a healthy dollop of fun and good humour (hihi).
2010 Hihi Gisborne Sauvignon Blanc
An invitingly pungent nose with a zesty citrus lift. Refreshing gooseberry, lemon and lime palate, a lighter style with the Gisborne provenance still ticking all the boxes expected of classic New Zealand SB. Moderate length, very pleasant easy-drinking style with a nice dry nettley finish. Refreshing.
2010 Hihi ‘Gizzy Savvy' Sauvignon Blanc
Similar to the above wine but slightly softer and fruitier with a slightly sweeter palate, giving a weightier feel. Smooth with vibrant acidity. For me, not quite as successful as the first sauvignon but one can see the extra fruitiness and softness giving wide appeal. The clean citrus finish makes it moreish.
2010 Hihi Gisborne Gewurztraminer
Redolent with tea rose and lychees, a nice lift of spice, Turkish Delight and honeysuckle, and a whiff of lovely old fashioned soap, the nose of the 2010 Hihi Gisborne Gewurztraminer is appealingly pretty and classically varietal. The palate is light to medium bodied, just off-dry with some nice viscosity. An easy to drink wine with moderate intensity and length and an attractive clean finish helped by finely judged acidity. In a range of solid, user-friendly wines, this is perhaps the most complete wine with the best potential, and makes attractive drinking now.
2009 Hihi Viognier
The current fashionable white variety and Hihi makes a good fist of it. Struck match and brown biscuit nose underlain with orange, ripe stone fruit and a whiff of jasmine. Off-dry, orangey palate with apricots, clean and balanced with some good length and an appealing apricot finish with some spice. An attractive lighter style – well suited to drinking as an aperitif but should hold up well with lighter dishes too.
2009 Hihi Chardonnay Viognier
A 50/50 blend with a tropical fruit punch nose with plenty of rockmelon and peach, very fresh. The palate shows ripe stonefruit, melon and spicy apricot, again fresh and light, softly fruity and nicely dry. An easy-drinking quaffer but not in a pejorative sense – its clean, dry finish and good balance elevates it above blandness or mediocrity usually associated with such blends. An easy, cheerful, food-friendly wine.
2010 Hihi ‘Sweet As’
The best seller! A blend of 70% (unoaked) chardonnay and 30% gewurztraminer, this is not as sweet as the name might suggest – more off-dry to medium – but it offers a surprisingly successful medley of chardonnay weight and texture, and gewurztraminer floral/spice aromatics. The nose shows the latter with roses, jasmine, honeysuckle and ginger and the palate is light with peachy/melon fruit. Clean and nicely made, this is uncomplicated cheerful drinking, and with the moderate alcohol (12.5%) one can imagine bucket-loads being of well-chilled ‘Sweet As’ being happily scoffed on a hot summer’s day.
(EJ)
(EJ)
Thanks to Kiwifruit Orchard Stay for the photo of Andrew Nimmo loading his basket press.