An invitation to a 30th Birthday lunch with Tim and Judy Finn, owners of Neudorf Wines and John Kavanagh their winemaker, was one of those that come along once in a blue moon. To taste the latest releases would be carrot enough, but the older vintages too? I was off up Mt Eden Road as fast as my legs could carry me and arrived at the French Cafe simply bursting with excitement.
We kicked off with Chardonnay. These were wines that seemed to be attractive whatever point of their evolution. The younger wines were full of promise and potential, though exciting to drink already. But for those with patience, the older wines, especially the 1999 which at almost 11 years was simply outstanding.
2008 Moutere : Very tight with a strong oatmeal/bran biscuit edge. A lovely thread of acidity, creamy, silky texture. Great length
2004 Moutere : Just starting to develop some secondary complexity. Oatmeal again, pristine silky texture almost like tasting fresh cream but with a thread of acidity.
2002 Moutere : Very smokey, struck match. Great texture and length, crisp and linear. I hate to say it, but I would find it very difficult not to place this is Burgundy. As fresh as a daisy.
1999 Moutere : Bottled under cork which some other tasters noted made an impact on flavour. The characters were not of TCA and I thought the cork impacted in a positive way, the effect giving the layer of complexity that seems an integral part of aged wine. Perhaps I have just drunk too much old white Burgundy. Almost a touch of aged Champagne; biscuity, leesy with the thread of mineral acidity.
Pinot Gris : I have written at length ( so no point in rehashing it all over again) that pinot gris is misunderstood and that, in the hands of a careful winemaker, can make some pretty special wines. Wines like these in fact.
2009 Moutere Very floral, aromatic. Fresh pear and apple crumble. Light and delicate, just off dry. The palate has a lovely juicy conference pear quality.
2004 Moutere Still very bright. Just starting to develop some freshly baked gingerbread aromas. Baguette crust.
2001 Moutere : Kaffir lime leaf and fresh root ginger. Amazingly lively and fresh though has started to develop some secondary characters. Continues to evolve in the glass to reveal more fresh pear and quince notes.
Riesling : This was a pretty delicious bracket of wines but just suffered slightly from coming in the middle of the meal and by being partnered with pumpkin ravioli. Whilst the dish was exceptionally good, it just didn't seem to do justice to the delicate, mosel inspired rieslings.
2009 Moutere : Very light and lifted aromas. Pretty meter lemon, bright florals. Medium dry with almost savory acidity. Almost Mosel like in structure and character.
2005 Moutere : Lovely point in it evolution. Some kerosene starting to emerge but primary too. Medium dry again.
2002 Moutere : Lemon peel, kerosene and delightful florals too. Absolutely at peak.
Pinot Noir : duck and pinot noir. Is there a better match ? An absolute sensational dish partnered by wines of such class.
2008 Moutere : bright translucent ruby. Truffles plus wild raspberry. Opulent but also quite restrained. Dark cherry, some minerality coming through too. Much too young but lashings 0f potential.
2005 Moutere : Just seems to be at an awkward stage right now and starting to go into its shell. Red licquorice, old roses and wild raspberry.
2003 : Definite forest floor starting to emerge; truffle, dark plum, raspberry and leafy undergrowth. Silky smooth tannins, just a tiny touch of warmth coming through mid palate. Richness and concentration with great length.
2001 Moutere : I have written 'marshmallow pillows' in my notes because this wine combines creamy soft complex aromas of raspberry, plum and dark cherry with a silky, soft almost featherlike texture. Chocolatey tannins; super ripe and beautifully integrated. Absolutely lovely and at peak now.
I have read some comments recently that certain wine/house styles aren't 'understood' by wine drinkers as though there is some inner circle of magic that can only be comprehended by the knowledgeable. What piffle. Grow great grapes, use a sympathetic and talented winemaker and make wines that reflect their sense of place. How hard can it be? This tasting showed that Neudorf has taken three decades to reach this stage in its development and its success hasn't happened overnight.
Perhaps the last word should go to winemaker John Kavanagh whose comment I thought, summed up the tasting well.
"Nelson is not always the easiest place to make wine, but it is always a special place".
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