Auburn Wines - a new name from Central Otago

 

 

A brace of Rieslings to cheer up a dull Monday morning (and I never thought I'd write those words).  

 

A few years ago, I spent a very jolly evening with Max Marriott in Christchurch, tasting NZ pinot in the company of Blair Walter, Clive Paton and some local wine buffs.  After some fine aged wines I seem to remember spending a great deal of time looking for somewhere to eat (and I am not sure I even remember where we did end up - some Hard Rock-esque type of place from memory).  But we all had a great time and I was struck by Max's ebullience and enthusiasm for all things vinous. He told me he had done vintages at Felton Road and Neudorf and talked at length about his desire to produce great riesling.  But I must admit I had forgotten about our conversation until voila!, two bottles turned up on my doorstep.

 



 

Auburn Wines is a collaboration between Max and two friends.  Their aim is to produce site specific riesling (and only riesling) in Central Otago.

 

Strong mineral thread in addition to chalk, satsuma and fresh lemon. Very pure and linear with surprisingly good concentration and depth for so delicate and subtle a wine. 

 

Very pure aromatics with a thread of tropical fruit at the front; papaya, mango and peach but then fresh lime and tangerine cut in too. A restrained touch of botrytis adds another layer.  Tastes marginally richer than the Lowburn, despite having a weeny bit less residual sugar, though there is still the almost savoury thread of mineral acidity cutting through. Great length.

 

I was impressed by the obvious attention to detail these wines have received; carefully crafted winemaking and very smartly presented.  Though I am not sure that I wouldn't have liked a little more distinction between the two wines in terms of style as they are fairly similar in sweetness, alcohol and character with only a small thread of botrytis hallmarking the Twilight wine.

 

And perhaps a vineyard designation is in order rather than the rather twee sounding 'Twilight' - unless of course that is the name of the vineyard?  (and one has to hope not).  If the wines are going to gather some track record and remain site specific then why not name the site?

 

But it is good to see someone stepping away from the catch-all 'german' style that seems so popular nowadays.  Though too low in alcohol to be confused with Austria, nevertheless these wines have more in common with the style of riesling being produced over there. 

 

An intriguing and compelling duo from a name to watch with interest.