No-one was more surprised than me when an invitation arrived to a vertical tasting of Dry River wines. Having never been on the winery mailing list, I had only encountered Neil McCallum once before, and then in slightly strained circumstances.
Back in 2001, Bob Campbell offered me a lift from Wellington to Martinborough but didn't mention that Jancis Robinson would be in the car too. Wedged in the dickie seat in Bob's new convertible Saab, I survived narrow decapitation (Bob closing the roof whilst I was in the back), certain death (Bob reversing down the motorway off ramp when he took a wrong turn) and total humiliation (me trying to avoid throwing up on the doyenne of female wine writers mid way across the Rimutakas). It would be an understatement to say I was feeling hassled by the time we got to Martinborough.
We pulled into Dry River, Bob and Jancis zoomed ahead and I was left trying to compose myself and my queasy tummy. It was clear that Neil McCallum had absolutely no idea why I was there too and whilst he was polite enough, wasn't exactly effusive in his welcome.
Eight years later and I found myself walking down Symonds Street en route to Old Government House and to a table groaning with (I hoped) vinous delights. I was slightly apprehensive but once I discovered that the tasting was to be hosted by Katy Hammond (winemaker) and Shane Hammond (viticulturist) I must admit I relaxed a little.
Dry River enjoys a cult status here in New Zealand although I confess during my time in London the winery hadn't really registered on my radar. (I was persuaded to buy a case of 98 Pinot Noir by a friend but have only had one bottle to date). But its strict 'be on the mailing list to be considered to get on the mailing list' policy, numbered bottles, cerebral wine notes, limited releases and reserved attitude has ensured it has retained air of mystery somehow at odds with the general NZ wine industry open and friendly bonhomie. This tasting was an opportunity to see if the wines lived up to the hype.
To set the scene, Katy and Shane described the wines we had before us. Verticals of Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Syrah and Pinot Noir would be shown, from 2007 through to 2004. Before we began tasting, Katy gave a quick overview of each particular vintage. As she described each year in turn, I was struck by her emphasis that each vintage was so very different in character. It seems perfectly reasonable to me that each year will provide its own individual weather pattern and so vintage conditions. Diversity of structure and differing aroma and flavor profiles are a cause for celebration. It is also a good reminder that, however god-like some winemakers believe themselves to be, no-one is bigger than Nature.
The wines we tasted were all very different, some much more successful than others, but each clearly showing the characters of the particular vintage.
Riesling : this bracket showed distinct vintage characters, the 2007 and 2005 the most successful. These were tight focussed wines that balanced high acidity with only a touch of residual sweetness, giving quite austere, mineral wines, built for the long haul.
Chardonnay : I have never been a huge fan of the Dry River style of chardonnay and this bracket didn't do much to make me change my mind. Though only 25% new oak is used, all four wines had a varnish-like, oaky edge which seemed to dominate. There wasn't much by way of texture, the wines do not undergo mlf, and there seems to be a chalky thread of hardness common to all. The 2004 was the most attractive, having taken on a smoky, struck match note and some florals too, but there are more successful chardonnays out there.
Pinot Gris : I continue to be impressed by the Dry River take on aromatics, the gewurztraminer and pinot gris often my favourite wines of the new releases. Perhaps the winery's dedication to concentration at the expense of subtlety works best on the 'alsace' varieties? The 2007 had a luscious almost decadent silky texture enhanced by quite noticeable residual sweetness (17g/litre), whereas the 2006, with only 11g/litre residual which is where Katie would ideally like the sweetness to sit, looked more angular with the alcohol just poking out a little.
Syrah : For me, the most successful bracket. Each wine showed a markedly different character, the 2005 Syrah a restrained, almost subtle wine with an enormous amount of complexity and structure. Very savoury and tight with firm acidity, this was a compelling example of NZ syrah.
Pinot Noir : I continue to be puzzled by the Dry River style of pinot noir and often find it too extracted and dense. But as there are many differing philosophies of winemaking in Burgundy, so I suppose I should come to expect a range of pinot styles being made here in NZ. Again, clear vintage definition across the flight. My preference is for the 2007 which showed a lighter touch, with a more floral, violet edge to the aroma and a delicious freshness to the fruit. Almost approachable now though no doubt will repay cellaring.
The brace of Hammonds seem to be relishing the opportunity to further refine and develop the Dry River style. This was an interesting tasting and very illuminating to see how one winery handles such diverse grape varieties. And an opportunity to taste mini verticals is always to be savored. A thoroughly enjoyable tasting not least because Bob had to leave early for a physiotherapy appointment and so couldn't offer anyone a lift home.
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