When I tasted the 2007 Man O'War Dreadnought Syrah last year it would be fair to say that I was amazed how a wine so heavily infected with brett could have been bottled. I know this sounds rich, coming from someone who has an ongoing love affair with Beaucastel, but there is something about NZ wine, with its purity and directness that just doesn't seem to sit well with brett.
You could argue I suppose that no wine, whatever its origin, should have brett and indeed there are those who cannot tolerate any hint of it at all. But in small doses, in cabernet blends or syrah I don't mind it. Though in pinot it is another story all together . .
But when I read glowing reviews by other wine critics I began to wonder if I had got it totally wrong. Thankfully I found an ally in Geoff Kelly whose review on his own website confirmed that I was not alone in my criticism of this wine.
From the 2008 vintage, a new winemaker, Duncan McTavish, lately of Waipara Springs, has taken up the reins. I heard McTavish speak at the first 'In Praise of Riesling' celebration and he was an ebullient, passionate speaker, the sort of chap who I am sure, wouldn't let a small microbial infection get in the way of things.
And judging by these latest releases, he has done a sterling job of cleaning things up.
The clear highlights were the two syrahs. The 2008 Man O'War Syrah is strongly varietal with plenty of black pepper, dark plum and spice on the nose whilst the palate is ripe yet with a degree of elegance. Not particularly intense but an attractive 'drink-me-now' sort of wine. The 2008 Dreadnought Syrah is a bigger richer version, with lots of blood, leather, dark plum and blueberry in addition to the black pepper and spice. The nose isn't more oaky but definitely has many more layers of interest. Ripe with firm tannins and a dry, savoury finish, this is an attractive wine that, whilst almost approachable now, really needs a year or two more to develop further. These wines were a good reminder that Hawke's Bay is not NZ's only wine region capable of producing of exciting syrah.
The 2008 Man O'War Chardonnay is well made with some ripe peach and red apple flavours and a background of cedary oak. Not overly exciting and, on the day, overshadowed by the brace of syrahs.
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