A war of words is being played out on a UK wine website over the ethics of wine writers. I don't feel the need to launch into a long discussion now (it is a beautiful day here and I want to get into the garden) but for the record :
- I sat with the folks from Seresin at the Marlborough Wine Weekend Gala Dinner
- I was sent this bottle of Pinot Gris by the winery
That out of the way, on to the wine. As Emma has quite rightly pointed out, we are nothing if not high priestesses of the unfashionable so I may as well start by saying that I like pinot gris. Not all mind you, for there are many from NZ that seem to be a combination of sweetness, insipid canned pear flavour and noticeable alcohol. But anyone who has enjoyed a bottle of Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio or Domaine Weinbach Pinot Gris Altenbourg Cuvée Laurence would scoff at those who seem keen to dismiss the variety out of hand.
The 2008 Seresin Estate Raupo Pinot Gris has a strong aroma of smoky lemon, musk and baked pear. Very faint spicy cinnamon and sweet spice also, but these secondary characters are subtle. The wine has great intensity and focus with an soft, silky, almost creamy flavour. The palate is balanced by finely judged acidity that stops the wine from becoming too much, whilst still retaining a delicious hedonistic succulence. A persistent and poised finish completes the picture.
Much as I loathe references to 'classic' wine regions, I could almost convince myself this wine was from Alsace because it combined the richness of fruit with really great texture and interest on the palate. There is a degree of complexity that raises it above most other NZ Pinot Gris. Indeed I am struggling to think of a comparable example . . . .
My only gripe is that nowhere on the label does it mention the wine is distinctly off dry (unless the word 'rich' implies sweetness? A bit wooly when the word is also used as a synonym for concentrated, weighty, intense etc etc . . .) On the release notes there is mention of the wine being not totally dry, but unless the customer is given some advice then they may find the wine much sweeter than anticipated.
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