I try not to drink at lunchtime, nor through the afternoon, but come 6pm I am the first with my nose in the fridge.
Champagne ? Ever hopeful
Dry Amontillado ? If the weather is chilly, most definitely
A glass of something I been sent to review ? Most likely.
But let me confess straightaway that even if the choice was REALLY limited, I would rarely choose to drink a glass of red wine on its own, especially as an aperitif. The world is so full of toothsome preprandials that there seems no need to drink a glass of red without something to eat.
But at this month's book group meeting the choice was either a glass of white or a red. A fellow groupee had already plumped for the white (which looked slightly pedestrian) so instead I opted for a red and was handed a glass of Te Mata 2007 Awatea. My heart sank a little. After all, at last month's Hawke's Bay Show I judged three red wine classes : Merlot, Merlot Predominant and finally Cabernet Predominant, and to say there were some issues with tannin management would be putting it politely. Often wines with glorious aromas and impressive ripe fruit characters were spoiled by enormous levels of dry, grippy tannin that completely threw the wine out of balance. It was difficult to know who the winemakers thought would be drinking these particularly huge beasties. Why craft a red that has so much tannin ? Presumably to give the impression that though the wine is "serious" and though young, has the structure to enable it to age for ten or so years (and all the while crossing one's fingers that the fruit doesn't fade first). Chances are the vast percentage of Hawke's Bay reds will be drunk if not immediately after purchase, then within a year. Two at best ??
How on earth was I going to struggle through a glass of a youthful HB red, deal with the tannins whilst trying to discuss the book?
Deep purple in colour, the nose of the 2007 Awatea is impressively ripe; fresh blackcurrant, some floral lift, wild raspberry with subtle new oak. Quite bold and powerful. But on the palate it is all silky and smooth, plenty of dark currant and blackberry fruit to be sure, but seamlessly integrated tannins, a touch of cedar and lead pencil but just so charming. The palate lifted by a freshness and lightness of touch (the influence of ripe cabernet??) that makes left bank Bordeaux so very delicious. This wine is deceptive because although it is perfectly approachable now, it has the structure and character to ensure a successful time in the cellar. Proof that tannins don't need to be big and chunky to be worthy.
In fact a rather uplifting sort of a wine entirely.
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