Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir - a winner ??

The editorial team here at the Independent Wine Monthly have a soft spot for Warren Gibson.  Notwithstanding his love of Nebbiolo (slightly strange) his easy going nature, award winning reputation as winemaker at Trinity Hill and producer of outstanding Syrah at Bilancia make him good company. But his feathers were ruffled when Emma queried whether Hawke's Bay would ever make really good pinot noir.
 

To say he froze her with a glance would be an understatement.
 

It was a fair question. However pro Hawke's Bay one can be, a wine region that claims it can do the Loire (sauvignon blanc and chenin blanc), Bordeaux (cabernets, merlot, petit verdot), the Rhone (viognier and syrah), Rioja (tempranillo), the Douro (touriga nacional), Piedmont (arneis), central Italy (montelpulciano and sangiovese), Alsace (gewurztraminer, pinot gris and riesling), Madeira (verdelho) could be said to be having a bob each way. And not forgetting Napa (zinfandel).

Surely the Bay couldn't attempt Burgundy (chardonnay and pinot noir) too?

 

I asked my husband if he could go and choose a bottle of wine for dinner and he returned with 2007 Trinity Hill High Country Pinot Noir.  A good choice I thought.  That was until he let out a painful cry of anguish. 

 

"Its sealed with a cork" he cried.

 

I should explain that he wasn't in the least bit concerned about cork taint but only that he wouldn't be able to reseal the wine once opened. He holds the world record for unscrewing a bottle, pouring out two measly glasses, and then reapplying the cap and popping the bottle into the cupboard.  In his world, the word profligate does not exist.

 

I took full advantage of the diam cork sealed bottled and was able to enjoy two decent sized glasses myself.  No-one could mistake this wine for Burgundy and nor should they. Surely the joy of NZ pinot noir is its sheer drinkability and the fact there is little need to cellar most wines before they become ready only counts in their favour. 

Why continue to hark back the old world and try and find Beaune-like or Chambolle-like characters in wines that have as little to do with the Cote d'Or as my aunt.

 

With a youthful purple colour, the nose had developed a subtle savoury dark plum, forest floor and wild mushroom aroma. Silky and smooth, not too overwhelming with a lovely freshness. Oak gives a tasty, mocha complexity though doesn't mask the fruit. The winery website recommends the wine could be cellared until 2012 but it is delicious now so why wait ?

 

Perhaps Warren is right and Hawke's Bay does have a future with pinot.  We'll wait and see.