nb : these 'road trip' articles are written jointly but our website only allows us to have one author per article. Whilst I may begin the piece, it is usually Emma who provides all the tasting notes and more erudite observations.
Leaving Clos Henri, it was a short drive up the Waihopai Valley Road to Churton.
It seems an age since Sam Weaver and I first met in London. He was in charge of La Reserve, a fine wine merchant tucked in behind Harrods in SW3 and owned by Remington Norman MW whilst I was a lowly junior at La Vigneronne, owned by Liz Berry MW. Only a mile or so apart, and though the owners were friends, there was always an unspoken rivalry between the two businesses.Who would have thought that 20 years later, Sam and I would both have transferred permanently to NZ, he with wife Mandy to the Waihopai Valley and me to Auckland ?
As we made our way up the drive, I could see Emma was in seventh heaven. A lover of the rural life, she enjoys a bucolic existence in Taupo though I suspect (but have never confirmed) that she would prefer to live somewhere remoter still. By the time we exited the Toyota she had taken in the farmland, dog, farmhouse and vineyards and was almost misty eyed.
Sam was away in Auckland but Mandy Weaver proved to be an excellent host and ambassador for the Estate.
The Weavers initially intended planting only pinot noir, however planting the vineyard in successive patches soon showed that the more westerly aspects were too cool for this tricksy variety and were better to sauvignon blanc; they now also have a couple of experimental plots of other (one quite unusual) white varieties – we await with bated breath. The vine blocks are a patchwork of different orientations, following the contours of the undulating, high altitude (200m above sea level) property.
Churton is currently 18 months through biodynamic conversion and it must be said, the labour-intensive style of biodynamics (there are seven fulltime vineyard workers for 25 hectares) seems a natural fit with their thoughtful, evolutionary approach. When Mandy explained how they are guided by the biodynamic planting calendar and how they stir the preparations they use on the vineyards for an hour in one direction and then one hour in the other I had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn't being taken for a ride. But one look at Emma, an ardent gardener, nodding in agreement and I knew that this was no joke. There is little irrigation, inter row planting, careful mowing and livestock to provide in-house fertilising. The focus is entirely on their land and its terroir – how to best express their carefully-tended plot of land. Such sentiments are bandied about all too commonly but looking at the vineyard and tasting the wines, all of which are very much executed on their own terms, it is clear that Sam and Mandy have a clear philosophy and pathway.
Biodynamics is not the only slightly different approach that sets Sam and Mandy apart from mainstream Marlborough producers: their wines are bottled under cork and released when they have had a little bit of bottle age. So the latest release of Sauvignon Blanc is the 2008, the Pinot Noir 2007. They plan to release their first single vineyard pinot noir next year- the 2008 Abyss Block.
2008 Churton Sauvignon Blanc: for a 2008, this wine is surprisingly youthful with no sign of any secondary characters emerging. Fresh and tightly knit, flint and gun smoke mingled with tropical fruit; bone dry with a lovely dry chalky minerality. Wet stone with a subdued personality but no lack of intensity. An old barrel ferment character adds a very subtle layer of complexity. Good length.
2007 Sauvignon Blanc: Lots of redcurrant, gunflint and smoke. Ripe fruit flavours, still in the green spectrum but definitely ripe. Touches of lychee and pineapple. Rich and beautifully balanced. A strongly textural wine with impressive length. Bone dry. Especially impressive when one thinks of the state many of its compatriots are in.
2007 Pinot Noir: Just released. Bright, youthful ruby. A delicious aroma of dark plum and delicate cranberry. Quite a reticent nose at this point but palate, thought light and delicate is somehow also bold and rich. Very fine texture, just starting to be approachable but needs a bit longer to really open out.
2006 Churton Pinot Noir: Toasty tamarillos and red fruits, lots of red current and raspberry. Beginning to take on a secondary perfumed character with exotic spice and forest floor. Very elegant with a markedly fine texture. Silky tannins. Good life and vigour, pretty almost – pulled up just a tad short but very balanced wine and attractive drinking.
Perhaps the Churton wines won't appeal to all, especially those who love the very pungent, upfront thiol-laden style of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. But as Marlborough matures and the styles of wine produced become more diverse; hopefully there always be room for producers who choose to follow a different path and produce individual wines. The 2007 Sauvignon Blanc in particular was a tantalising (and delicious) example of what can be achieved with the variety in this region. With 98% of its production going overseas, Churton is excellent ambassador for Marlborough’s still relatively untapped potential.