I have been in Napier for the last couple of days, judging the 2009 Hawke's Bay Wine Awards.
It is a pity there are not more regional shows in NZ as these are an excellent way to showcase what a particular region has to offer. I judged at the Margaret River Wine Show last year and got an invaluable insight into what the region was good at (tremendous Chardonnays and standout Cabernets). It also showed how vintage can play such an important part in more marginal climates as the 2007 reds were sensational whereas the 2006s were largely forgettable.
In NZ we are always be told about the wine shows that have the most number of entries, the biggest number of golds, the most lauded judging panel, forgetting that sometimes it is more useful and relevant to see how individual regions are progressing.
In Hawke's Bay, as expected, the Syrah and Chardonnay classes were of an excellent standard with some original and beautifully crafted wines and there were some pretty delicious Merlots and Merlot blends too. Though some winemakers are still favouring the 'bigger is better' approach and spoiling some lovely ripe fruit through over extracting tannin and then using too much new oak there is an encouraging trend to let bright fruit shine.
I have no idea what will take best in show, nor the names of any of the trophy winners (all closely guarded secrets) but the minute the results are out, I will be running (!) to buy a case of the trophy winning Gewurztraminer. I judged the "premium wine class" and was stunned by the wine. It was so heady, a perfect combination of musk, bourbon rose, with a hint of turkish delight, quite powerful and full bodied, admittedly with a touch of alcohol peeking through right on the finish. A hedonist's delight, I don't think it was a current vintage wine as it had taken on some lovely secondary characters. Not for the long haul but over the next 1-2 years I think it will provide sensational drinking.
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