A very blustery, almost Wellingtonesque day in Auckland blew Lynnette Hudson and Matt Donaldson from Pegasus Bay into town to present a selection of their latest release pinot noirs. It seemed a great opportunity to taste some of NZ's most individual wines, plus there was the not inconsiderable drawcard of some older vintages too so I hotfooted it off to the Viaduct and Kermadec Restaurant.
Prices shown are recommended retail but most of the wines tasted have long since sold out.
On arrival 2008 Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Dry Riesling $33.95 was served. Mid straw in colour, the nose is more developed than the vintage would suggest. The touch of botrytis fruit gives an apricot warmth and there is a spicy, almost freshly baked pastry, cinnamon edge too. On the palate the wine is dry, with just a hint of sweetness, full bodied and rich. Quite a departure in style from most mainstream NZ rieslings ; this is more akin with Austrian Riesling; a big, powerful wine where some wild ferment, barrel maturation, botrytis all add up to make an arresting complex wine. Very pure with none of the kerosene, phenolic grip that would suggest Alsace. I love this wine.
2008 was a great vintage in Waipara, with very warm almost drought conditions at first and, then some rain which slowed everything down. As a result the wines are super opulent and ripe; the 2008 Main Divide Pinot Noir $25.95 has big warm blueberry and plum aromas. Very rich with lovely ripe tannins. Retains freshness. In contrast 2007 was a cooler year, with a long hang time. Pegasus Bay produced two Main Divide Reserve wines; 2007 Main Divide Tehau Selection Pinot Noir, Waipara $34.95 : Lifted floral aromas; dense, berry and plum. Perfumed and silky. Approachable now. I would have expected the 2007 Main Divide Tipinui Selection Pinot Noir, Marlborough $34.95 to be lighter than the Waipara wine but not on this showing. Distinctive regional edge; vivid aromas of florals plus stewed rhubarb and cranberry. The palate is dense and ripe with a nice savoury edge, tannins are firm but in balance. Good length.
Then onto the main label. 2007 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir $49.95 : Still very primary. Perhaps entering a slightly closed phase, there is some vanilla ice cream, blueberry and spice on the nose but with a restrained edge. Big and chewy, lots of extract and weight, warmth on back of palate. Long finish. Maturing pinot noir is a wonderful thing and the 2003 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir n/a has a lovely, almost heavenly aroma. Textbook mature pinot noir; savoury, forest floor, button mushroom. Really delicious, true mid palate sweetness. Thread of acidity keeps palate fresh. Just a bit unresolved on the finish. Lovely now though in no hurry to drink, still potential for further development. 1998 Pegasus Bay Pinot Noir n/a : Beautifully developed colour, just satrtig to develop brick red hue. The wine must have been something of a beastie when young, because even 11 years later it is still something of a handful. Nose is quite baked, licquorice, leather, spice. A bit too extracted and chewy on the palate; lots of density but at the expense of subtlety and perfume. Not sure that my bottle wasn't very slightly tca affected.
Only made in exceptional vintages, the Prima Donna Pinot Noir is Pegasus Bay's flagship bottling. The 2006 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir $85.95 : Very perfumed, more new oak adds a spicy nutmeg and clove edge. Rich and luscious on the palate, with integrated, fully ripe tannins giving structure and balance. We tasted this wine for the July IWM and it continues to impress. Quite difficult to get such ripeness and plumpness without losing freshness or poise.
According to Matt, 2001 was a strange vintage. On New Year's Eve 2000 a tremendous hail storm struck the vineyard and waking up on the first day of 2001 they found they had lost half the crop. 2001 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir n/a : fully developed nose; leather, spice, mocha and vanilla. Fresh mushroom, sweet berry, forest floor. Lovely and silky though just a little ripe tannin adding structure. Absolutely at its peak now. Just pulls up a teeny bit short now, with a touch of warmth rather than fruit concentration but this is nitpicking. I would be thrilled to enjoy a glass of this. 1998 Pegasus Bay Prima Donna Pinot Noir n/a : Just starting to develop brick red hue. Nose has similarities with the regular label; leather, mocha, coffee grounds and spice but with more freshness and vibrancy. Delicious and savoury, just what mature pinot should taste like. Surprisingly subtle with a core of fruit sweetness.
A fascinating tasting that showed a clear evolution in both style and quality has occurred with Matt and Lynnette in charge. Though the wines were exciting I was left with the impression that there is still much more to come. A winery to watch.
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