I returned from Vienna determined to master the fine art of Tafelspitz. Not everyone would warm to the idea of boiled beef, creamed spinach and fried potatoes but I have become obsessed with this most Austrian of dishes. Maybe it is the fresh apple and grated horseradish accompaniment - who knows ? Even on a very balmy Viennese evening this dish hit the spot, more so (I hoped) on a cold winter evening in Auckland.
On Sunday I had a go at recreating Tafelspitz but met with only limited success. I bought silverside but I don't think this was the right cut of meat (apparently I should have chosen bottom sirloin primal cut). The sight of a huge piece of greyish meat poaching away on the stove was met with incredulity by the children who couldn't believe that WAS dinner. Anyway in the end everyone ate it so there we go.
The perfect wine match with this dish is gruner veltliner but I couldn't access any of my bottles because the way to the cellar door is currently obstructed with builders tools, pieces of timber and buckets of nails. But rustling round in a box of samples I found bottle of 2008 Pegasus Bay Bel Canto Riesling which seemed promising. I was after a dry, unoaked white with some weight and according to the release notes, this wine was a made from a blend of clean noble-botrytis affected and fully sun ripened grapes, fermented by indigenous wild yeasts and matured in old barrels.
It was an intriguing white, rich in colour with a complex arresting nose; some apricot and exotic spice and also biscuity, almost nutty notes. The old barrel component is very subtle, just adding an extra layer of texture rather than any obvious oak character. A rich, dry, satisfying wine with plenty of intensity and depth and with 14% alcohol, the body to be able to stand up to the food. Though I am sure the Bel Canto will develop even greater complexity with time I liked it right now; the balance of ripe botrytis fruit, the hint of barrel character and a wide spectrum of flavours, all bound up by tight acidity, making for a delicious glass. An unusual, stimulating wine.
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