Despite what my children think, I am 99% sure that all wine does not taste the same. Astonishingly, wines can be quite different as I found out at our 'end of MW exams' celebration dinner. Although women are, on the whole, much better at organising things than men, MdeG again proved he is no slouch in this department. Supplied with our 'desirable' list :
not too snooty
but special enough to feel special
delicious food
an ability to hear each others' conversation
good wine list
from a possible shortlist which included Rockpool, the Pier, Aria, he suggested Claude's in Woollahra. Although not enjoying the high profile of the other restaurants, when it was floated we could take our own wine, the choice became obvious.
Having ruminated for some time, we decided to take 1 Champagne, 2 whites, 2 reds and 2 sweet wines, just the right amount for a party of four. And the first two wines were so complete that quite honestly I could have stopped drinking there and then.
Sally brought 1998 Veuve Clicquot La Grande Dame. Made from 64% pinot noir and 36% chardonnay, this was a wine defined by what it wasn't rather than what it was. Supremely elegant and tight, with taut acidity, crisp focused fruit, not particularly forthcoming but with hints of acacia, hazelnut and orange blossom. A lesson in restraint and harmony it was absolutely delightful; impressive enough to make us stop and think but deliciously celebratory too.
What could possibly follow such a wonderful wine ? Luckily MdeG had brought a wine so far removed in structure, style and weight as to provide the perfect counterpoint. 1989 Riesling Clos Hauserer Vendange Tardive, Domaine Zind Humbrecht was a treat, almost two decades old but showing life and verve still. Rich opulent fruit, though not at all heavy. Supple and lithe with the acid spine that is such a feature of riesling. Complex, smokey and almost decadent, still some residual sweetness apparent, it was a perfect match for Cured Blue Fin Tuna, Betel and Cashew.
By now we were all in full flight and I gave up taking notes. So I have only a dim recollection of William Fevre Chablis les Preuses 05, Leoville-Las Cases 76, Esmonin Gevrey VV 95 and Suduiraut 89. Though the taste of Arnaldo Caprai's Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito 2005 lives on . . .
The distance between Alsace and Champagne is only about 300km, (almost the same as between Taupo and Auckland) but the first two white wines could not have been more different. They were fascinating proof that wine should have a sense of place and that relatively short distances can yield wines of very diverse character.
Unfortunately with an estimated retail cost of $450, for the two bottles, I will have to find less expensive alternatives to try and illustrate the point once I return home.
ps. the photo is of piper sarmentosum, often known as wild betel