I am in Gisborne for the week, judging the International Chardonnay Challenge and all is going smoothly. After another hairy flight courtesy of the teeny regional Air New Zealand plane, (though thanks to MdG I managed to woof through a double gin beforehand which made things easier), we were straight into the judge's welcome dinner and three top flight wines.
To start Perriet Jouet Grand Brut nv, not 100% Chardonnay but still pretty light on its feet, showing moderate autolysis and some toasty brown bread and butter characters. Next 2006 Penfold's Yattarna, tasted for the second time this month and really impressive both times. Light years away in style from those first vintages, the addition of some Tasmanian fruit really heightening the elegance, it looked very tight and concentrated.
Finally 2004 Drouhin Beaune Clos des Mouches Blanc which was just starting to come into its own. The fruit for this wine comes from chardonnay vines that are, on average, 45 years old which again highlights the contribution vine age can make. Just delightful, showing a silky texture, subtle oak influence and a creamy quality with some leesy, malo notes. Wonderful complexity and depth. Not an outstanding vintage but a delicious wine nonetheless.
Tomorrow the judging begins in earnest, 520 wines.