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2006 Vidal Reserve Syrah, Hawke's Bay

I returned directly from France and arrived home to Auckland feeling distinctly shady and somewhat fuggy. Walking through the front door I was instantly assailed by the aroma of cleaning products - having left my parents in charge my Mum had seized her chance and had spring cleaned the house from top to bottom. But there was something amiss, something out of place and I just couldn't put my finger on it. Whilst it seemed distinctly odd that the beds were all made, the windows sparkly, the ironing basket empty, the oven cleaned ( I don't think I have ever seen the house so pristine) there was something else.

What wasn't right?

Then I spied it. Through the fog of jet lag and lack of sleep I saw, standing there on the kitchen bench, a bottle of 2006 Vidal's Reserve Syrah. My heart fell to my boots. I couldn't really adopt an accusatory tone, especially as I was now the recipient of about $1000 of cleaning hours, but I felt honour bound to ask.

'Dad, did you open this wine?'

'Which one?' came the reply.

'This one', I said, trying to keep the panic out of my voice. 'This one I was sent for review'

My dad hovered into view.

'Yes' he said triumphantly, 'and bloody good it was too'

Subduing my hysteria, I asked when the bottle had been opened. I was told that last night's dinner of roast lamb had demanded a red and, having had a shufties around in my office, he had spied this one in the rack. The whole turn of events was made more poignant by the fact that my Dad is a vegetarian and almost any wine (but especially pinot gris) will keep him happy. But asked to find a red, he had taken his task seriously.

Snatching up the bottle, I was mightily relieved to note there was still a good three or four inches left. Poured into a glass, the wine immediately released a rich heady aroma; dark plum, blueberry, cracked pepper and spice, all bound up in a rich cedar, nutmeggy cloak of new oak. The palate, having benefitted from 12 hours aeration was silky, smooth and rich, a mass of dark berry fruits jostling with sweet oak and warm alcohol. There were plenty of ripe tannins and a firm structure but the wine was so opulent and dense that it was immediately enjoyable.

'Rather good isn't it'

'So I would expect for $55.00'

'Well, there you are' he said, disappearing to read Vintage Bike Mart.

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