After a slight hiatus, (I misplaced my IWM January notes somewhere between Auckland and Bordeaux), we have decided to press ahead, publish the wines tasted in March and then upload the January notes (now found) retrospectively. Whilst this is not an ideal scenario, it does prove that we are not perfect after all. However talking of perfection, Stephen Bennett MW has released the first of his new Discovery Point wines, and who sent us the Dry Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc to taste. Also in this issue, new labels Turanga Creek, Domain Road and Bird Wines line up alongside established labels Valli, Alana Estate, Sacred Hill, Sileni Estates amongst others. And a look at the 2007 Pinot Noirs from Felton Road (whites to follow in the next issue).
Whilst we tasted some lovely wines this month, we still despair at the back labels that adorn some bottles. If you feel the need to write a treatise, then at least make it relevant to the person it is aimed at, presumably 'The Customer' ? Surely the serving temperature is particularly relevant - Cloudy Bay's Te Koko was absolutely delicious tasted very lightly chilled, but a glass taken straight from the bottle kept in the fridge overnight was far too cold, had muted aromatics, showed none of the richness and opulence. Instead the wine looked oaky, lean and dare we say it, slightly hard.
Rather than provide lots of technical details (let's be honest - who ever chooses a wine based on the brix at harvest), why not recommend a serving temperature, level of sweetness ( as a taste sensation not as grammes of residual sugar) and potential for cellaring.
Wouldn't this sort of information be of more use than recommending a dish of hand dived scallops as an accompaniment ?
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2008 Dry Riesling |
Marlborough | $22.00 | 17.0 |
| 2008 Sauvignon Blanc | Marlborough | $22.00 | 16.5 |
Stephen Bennett MW has never been one to hide his light under a bushel so it was with some interest that we approached these wines. The 2008 Discovery Point Riesling has a very pure aroma : lots of jasmine, talcum powder, ripe pear and boiled sweets. This leads to a palate of citrus fruit and crisp green apple with a very firm backbone of acidity, softened ever so slightly by around 5g residual sugar. The overall impression is of a quite bold wine with a degree of weight and texture. Several other reviewers have commented on the wine's likeness to Alsace Riesling however neither of us could see the connection.
The other current release is the 2008 Discovery Point Sauvignon Blanc, the nose of which is very retro showing plenty of green capsicum, nettle and grass - a reminder of how Marlborough used to taste before thiols took over. The palate is dry (and the accompanying release notes emphasise this – and of course, this time likening it to Sancerre), and again with pretty bracing acidity and a crisp, green apple finish. Good length. The wines are good and well priced. It will be interesting to see how the label progresses.
We were left with the impression that Bennett is trying to lend his wines extra gravitas by comparing them to those from more illustrious wine regions but when there is no real likeness surely this is spurious? Shouldn't wine be judged on its own merits? Though comparison seems a bit of an obsession with SB who is keen to tread on the opposition when it suits but is happy to liken his wine to the best (the yet to come Chardonnay will evidently be Kumeu River-esque) when that proves a better bet.
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2008 Riesling |
Martinborough |
$31.00 |
16.0 |
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2008 Sauvignon Blanc Single Vineyard |
Martinborough |
$27.00 |
17.0 |
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2007 Chardonnay Single Vineyard |
Martinborough |
$42.00 |
16.5 |
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2008 Pinot Noir Lumière |
Martinborough |
$33.00 |
15.5 |
Winemaker Chris Archer continues to make his mark at Alana Estate. The 2008 Alana Estate Riesling is pretty with some delicate florals, not much in the way of concentration but dry and clean with an attractive limey, mineral finish. Non-Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc is enjoying something of a higher profile lately, as consumers seek different examples of NZ's flagship variety. The 2008 Alana Estate Sauvignon Blanc has a delightful nose : not particularly pungent but with some ripe stone fruit and a whiff of struck match. Moderate weight and richness, a nice savoury edge, but just pulls up a little short. An enjoyable drink. Having tasted many emaciated Chardonnays of late, it comes as something of a relief to take in the huge woosh of new oak, predominantly nutmeg, cinnamon and sweet spice on the nose of the 2007 Alana Estate Chardonnay. Touches of banana milkshake too. The palate is tight, with some creamy textural elements, bound up in crisp acidity. A little unresolved at the moment though with time the wine should work itself out. A new direction for Alana is the release of the 2008 Alana Estate Lumière Pinot Noir, a wine intended for early consumption and so made in a vibrant fruity style.The nose has plenty of red berry, plum and raspberry aromas, thankfully not smothered by too much oak. The palate is soft, silky and though the tannins are fairly low key, there isn't perhaps as much fruit as there could be. And at $33.00 the wine carries a fairly hefty price tag for a wine that is described as made in an "early drinking style".
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2008 Old Vine Riesling |
Central Otago |
$28.00 |
17.0 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Gibbston Vineyard |
Central Otago |
$55.00 |
18.0 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Bannockburn Vineyard |
Central Otago |
$55.00 |
18.0 |
Central Otago's high profile with Pinot Noir often means other varieties don't get much of a look in. Which is a shame, because the region can do really well with aromatic vareties such as Riesling and Pinot Gris. This 2008 Valli Old Vine Riesling is a cracker with a rich, dense minerally character, plenty of citrus fruit and mid palate weight. A serious, dry wine that will age well.
In a good vintage, pinots from the Gibbston Valley can offer a fabulous interpretation of the grape. Perfumed, delicate and subtle, they may lack the power of Bannockburn but they more than make up for it with aromatics and finesse. The 2007 Valli Gibbston Vineyard Pinot Noir is an excellent example of this with a lovely darkish translucent ruby hue and a strongly aromatic note of blueberry, violet and raspberry. There is richness and power on the palate, lifted by a leafy thread of acidity. Too young, this wine needs time to allow the lovely florals to blossom. Great length and plenty of potential.
It was excellent to have a comparative example of the Bannockburn style from the same producer and vintage. The 2007 Valli Bannockburn Vineyard Pinot Noir is in a different mould, the aromatics of the Gibbston wine replaced by power and density. Fruits in the dark berry, omega plum and morello cherry spectrum compete for attention with lush, opulent sweetness and an exotic earthiness. Impressive length and power.
A brace of delicious pinots and a great illustration of sub regional differentiation from Central Otago.
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2008 Riesling |
Central Otago |
$22.00 |
15.5 |
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2008 Saignée Rosé |
Central Otago |
$22.00 |
14.5 |
Domain Road is a new Central Otago winery based in Bannockburn. Planted with predominantly pinot noir plus a smaller amounts of sauvignon blanc and riesling, the wines are made by the ever-capable Carol Bunn and have already achieved some success with the 2007 Pinot Noir winning a gold medal at the Air New Zealand Wine Show. The 2008 Domain Road Riesling is a bracing, crisp wine, its intense lime and meyer lemon acidity balanced by ripe mandarin fruit. There is some residual sweetness to off-set the acid and give a pure clean, medium dry style of Riesling. Though disappointingly there isn't the merest whiff of advice to the consumer as to the sweetness level of the wine which would have been helpful.
The 2008 Domain Road Saignée Rosé lacks conviction. Very pale colour, a weak, faintly raspberryish nose and an off dry moderately fruity flavour. Not bad but needs a bit more fruit and a little less residual sweetness to give a more complete wine.
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2008 Bel Echo Sauvignon Blanc |
Marlborough |
$22.50 |
18.0 |
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2007 Bel Echo Pinot Noir |
Marlborough |
$27.50 |
16.5 |
Henri Bourgeois is a fervent supporter of Sauvignon Blanc (lucky as his vineyards are in Sancerre and Pouilly) and at a Maison Vauron tasting last year, I was left with refreshing impression that he viewed Sauvignon as one of the most noble grape varieties, in contrast to the apologist stance taken by some NZ winemakers.
Bel Echo is Clos Henri's second tier label but the wines are pretty special nonetheless. The 2008 Bel Echo Sauvignon Blanc has a pungent pure nose full of red capsicum, fresh nettle and a real crisp snow pea edge. There is a touch of tropical fruit too, which continues on to the palate to give a rich, round textural wine yet with a crisp mineral edge running through. This is a complex wine which shows really good length, unusual in wines at this price level. An excellent example.
The 2008 Bel Echo Pinot Noir has a lovely bright ruby colour, a plump very lifted aroma full of raspberry, strawberry and plum. There is some oak, which adds a creamy, biscuity note, but thankfully doesn't overwhelm the fruit. While less complex and complete that the sauvignon, it is a delicious easy drinking wine that is perfect now.
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2008 Pathway Sauvignon Blanc |
Marlborough |
$14.95 |
16.5 |
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2008 Pathway Pinot Noir |
Marlborough |
$19.95 |
15.0 |
Having launched with such a fanfare, it comes as something of a surprise that WofA have chosen to release an entry level range well after the premium Composite and upper premium Resolute series. Wouldn't it have been more logical to start with a basic multi parcel blend whilst in the meantime identifying those particular sites that seemed to offer up something special? After all, wasn't that the way the grand cru/premier cru tiers evolved in Burgundy and elsewhere? Unfortunately, the accompanying publicity sheets that arrived with the wines shed no light on this aspect of Ara’s brand establishment (other than to note that these are the ‘entry level premium’ wines, obviously not considered to be a contradiction in terms in Ara’s book).
The 2008 Pathway Sauvignon Blanc has plenty of tropical fruit on the nose with a herbaceous undercurrent. On the palate there is some vibrant fresh, limey grassy fruit, moderate intensity and a clean crisp finish. Pretty firm acids, lightish in body but priced fairly. In this sector of the market competition is fierce and Ara’s Pathway may not yet have the intrinsic quality to lift it above the hoards of other $15 Marlborough Sauvignons, which must only be set to rise with the size of the most recent vintages.
The 2008 Pathway Pinot Noir has an attractive aroma: dark plum, soft berry, stewed rhubarb and spice. There is a touch of coffeeish oak, but this seems to be a feature well liked by the consumer. On the palate it has some silky fruit, not too much oak and a soft cherry liquorice finish. Moderate length.
Both wines offer reasonable value but not quite the 'shining pathway' the PR sheets would have us believe.
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2008 Basket Press Cabernet Merlot |
Hawke's Bay |
$20.90 |
16.5 |
Over the last twenty-odd years, Sacred Hill has established a sound reputation for quality Hawke’s Bay reds (not least with their recent triumph in mixing it with the 2005 First Growths in a heavyweight London Bordeaux vs. Gimblett Gravels tasting in which the 2006 Helmsman made the top 5 wines) but it is good to know that even at the $20 mark they offer quality and value for money. The 2008 Sacred Hill Basket Press Merlot Cabernet has a rather inviting nose of rich plums and berry fruit, a thread of cabernet leafiness and some spicy oak. The palate is medium bodied with supple fruit and softish tannins, relatively straightforward in style, and is nicely balanced with moderate length. A solid effort from an ever-reliable producer.
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2008 Sauvignon Blanc |
Marlborough |
$24.95 |
16.5 |
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2007 The Triangle Merlot |
Hawke's Bay |
$34.95 |
15.5 |
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2007 Cellar Selection Syrah |
Hawke's Bay |
$19.95 |
15.0 |
Sileni Estates arrived on the scene with a hiss and a roar all those years ago with their gleaming winery and restaurant and expensive top level wines. But since then, they seem to have disappeared off the radar a little so it was with some surprise that we received these wines to taste. Fresh, clean and moderately pungent, the 2008 Sileni Sauvignon Blanc has an attractive grassy, capsicum and passionfruit nose. The flavours are ripe and smooth with a nice lift of acidity. Quite a round, ripe style. In the stampede to promote Syrah and Pinot Noir, we often forget that NZ can produce some lovely Merlots. Unfortunately the 2007 Sileni The Triangle Merlot isn't one of the great ones, but a ripe, competently made red with some attractive fruitcake and plum flavours, softish tannins and a dry, savoury finish. Probably a little pricey for what is in the bottle though. The 2007 Sileni Estates Cellar Selection Syrah is spicy, plummy and nicely balanced but not especially concentrated or distinguished. Not badly priced but nor is it offering anything different or especially good value to separate it from the crowd.
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2006 Te Koko |
Marlborough |
$58.00 |
18.5 |
When we unmasked the wines, the first glimpse of Cloudy Bay's flagship Sauvignon Blanc revealed a new label - cleaner and more contemporary than the old (which we both rather liked). The wine seems to have been cleaned up too; gone is the funky, feral edge that hallmarked earlier vintages and in its place a purer, less 'out there' note. The nose has guava, candied pineapple and mango with a subtle nutmeggy oak component. The release notes state the wine took until Christmas to complete its primary alcoholic fermentation after which it spent 11 months in oak. The oak is fairly restrained, a seasoning rather than a sledgehammer. The best part of the wine is the palate which is silky, smooth and strongly textural. Real mid palate weight, great length and richness, this wine shows that whilst there are many pretenders to the throne, Cloudy Bay is still the undisputed King of barrel fermented Sauvignon Blanc.
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2008 Pinot Gris |
Whitford |
$24.00 |
16.5 |
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2008 Late Harvest Viognier 375ml |
Whitford |
$28.00 |
17.0 |
A new label from Whitford, made by Rod McDonald. The 2008 Pinot Gris has some baked pear, honey and ripe white peach with touches of florals creeping in too - honeysuckle especially. A savoury edge on the palate, akin almost to Griffiths Gingernuts biscuits. An interesting first release, with some complexity lifting it ahead of the field. Rod McDonald seems to have made something of a career out of crafting excellent Rhone inspired wines so it was perhaps inevitable that he'd have a go at a sweet(ish) Viognier. (Apparently much Condrieu was traditionally vinified to leave some residual sweetness). Tasting the 2008 Turanga Creek Late Harvest Viognier it is easy to see why this is such an interesting wine style. The nose is pure and clean, with touches of blossom, peach and spice. The palate is not overtly sweet but has a distinct ruby grapefruit peel and manuka honey character lifted by clean acidity. Not really a dessert wine, more of a demi sec style, and a very appealing one too.
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2007 Pinot Noir Big Barrel |
Marlborough |
$35.00 |
17.0 |
Very bright translucent ruby, the nose is rich and opulent, offering plum, raspberry and some violet florals. Really lovely bright fruit on entry, delicious soft, velvety mouthfeel. The oak is quite noticeable leading to a drying, cinnamon finish but there is more than enough fruit to suggest that with a year in bottle, things will have melded more harmoniously and this wine will be even better.
A promising start for the label.
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2007 Pinot Noir |
Central Otago |
|
18.5 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Calvert |
Central Otago |
|
18.0 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Cornish Point |
Central Otago |
|
18.5 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Block 3 |
Central Otago |
|
19.0 |
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2007 Pinot Noir Block 5 |
Central Otago |
|
19.0 |
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2006 Pinot Noir Block 5 |
Central Otago |
|
19.0 |
What is it about Felton Road Pinots that makes them stand out ? We realized we had some delicious wines indeed in the flight and when the producer was revealed it came as no real surprise, as Felton Road’s reputation for excellent pinot noir (and more) is well-established. Fine balance, particularly in the handling of the oak (other pinot producers take note); the quality and concentration of the fruit, whilst resisting any hints of the occasionally cloying nature CO fruit can take on - these wines all showed a lovely freshness; and the elegance and complexity seen in the still young wines. It is heartening to see a star producer so emphatically deliver on its reputation, particularly when it seems at times NZ is awash in a sea of overpriced pinots.
The 2007 Felton Road Pinot Noir has a seductive, densely fruited aroma full of star anise, dark plum and dark berry fruit. There is a floral headiness; violets and lavender. The flavours are at once rich, silky but also very approachable. There is a freshness to the fruit that really lifts the profile. Whilst we are not suggesting that the wine will not stay the distance it is, to quote that oft used phrase 'dangerously drinkable" right now.
The Calvert Road vineyard is owned by Owen Calvert and managed by Felton Road's viticulturalist. Gareth King. The fruit is taken by three producers, Felton Road, Pyramid Valley and Craggy Range, a veritable triumvirate of heavyweights. (Mental note to self - purchase a bottle from each producer so that the effects of terroir can be assessed).
Again a very complete wine with all elements in harmony, the 2007 Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir has a restrained new leather, savoury edge. Less opulent than the straight Felton Road, but with more intensity. The wine is medium bodied palate is rich, deep and satisfying.
Fruit from Cornish Point was bottled as a separate entity but now appears under the Felton label. The 2007 Felton Road Cornish Point Pinot Noir is deeper in colour than the previous two, with a rich, earthy edge, with almost a touch pepper. The flavours are in a different spectrum, savoury and herby, yet still managing to channel the lush Otago style.
The Block wines are some of the most sought after and it was a real treat, when the wines were unmasked to be able to line them up side by side and retaste. Like siblings, each has a common 'family' theme whilst managing to retain a sense of individuality. Especially as the last time we both shared a bottle of Block 3 Pinot (the 2002), we were left a teensy bit disappointed. A reflection on the vintage perhaps ? The 02s were released with such a fanfare yet many look distinctly tired now. The Felton Block 3 didn't, but had lost some of the hallmark freshness and vitality at the expense of power and brawn.
It would seem however the 2007 vintage is a bit of a standout for Central Otago,
The 2007 Block 3 is bolder and more fragrant than the previous three, yet sacrificing nothing in style nor substance. Spicy berry compote nose with floral aromatics and a distinct blueberry lift and some light forest floor elements emerging. The flavours are rich and savoury and though undoubtedly all these wines have had a decent amount of new oak it in no way makes itself obvious, instead contributing an understated clove and cinnamon character. Certainly there is no obvious wood tannins, the structure coming from the fruit tannins. Palate is richly fruited, has more grip and tannin than the Calvert and Cornish Point, seemingly built for the longer haul, lengthy but not extraordinarily so, this is nonetheless a very delicious and beautifully made wine that offers very attractive drinking now but will also get even better after a few years bottle age.
The 2007 Block 5 is a more structured wine again, less overt and opulent but with a great density of fruit. An exotic, spicy nose, very perfumed, a lot more dark fruited with some underlying truffle and forest floor notes, palate is elegant, very fine balance, again a step up in focus and depth of structure, much lengthier and richer, but still with a lot of finesse, this is a flagship example of the variety and region.
The 2006 Felton Road Block 5 Pinot Noir was tasted alongside the 2007, and these two wines showed why much more emphasis should be placed on individual vintages. The 2006 Block 5 is a firmer, more tannic beastie, still with lovely floral and aromatics and some secondary complexity starting to emerge. The palate is again dense and has an almost chewy character to the fruit whilst still retaining finesse and freshness. Plenty of fruit, lots of dark cherry and berryfruit and a lovely sappy herbal note balancing the rich liquorice finish. Less immediately attractive now, especially after the super delicious 07s, it has all the components to ensure a decent life ahead.
It is a pleasure to see, but quite difficult to taste, six wines grown within a cooee of each other. Such is the craftmanship of Blair Walter and the Felton team, the wines all showed their own distinct characters whilst retaining a family resemblance that spoke of the region and producer. There is no doubt that Felton Road is thoroughly deserving of its reputation.
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2008 Pinot Noir |
Central Otago |
$34.95 |
16.0 |
Another release from this new label. Very bright youthful purple ruby. Lifted floral aromas, not particularly dense but aromatic with raspberry, red cherry and plum notes. More Marlborough than Central in structure with juicy, red berry fruit flavours and a touch of spice. A pretty wine, attractively packaged, but quite pricey.
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2008 Riesling |
Waipara |
$24.00 |
16.5 |
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2008 Dry Riesling |
Waipara |
$26.00 |
16.0 |
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2008 Pinot Gris |
Waipara |
$28.00 |
15.5 |
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2008 Gewurztraminer |
Waipara |
$27.00 |
17.5 |
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2008 Sauvignon Blanc |
Waipara |
$23.00 |
16.5 |
A new producer from Waipara, Greystone Vineyards has already made quite a splash.
The 2008 Greystone Riesling is an off dry interpretation of the variety; all ripe pear, stonefruit and mandarin. Crisp and minerally the sweetness is nicely offset but citrussy acidity. A pure clean wine. The 2008 Greystone Dry Riesling shows the same purity of flavour, with a crisp green apple, citrus and wet stone character. Perhaps marginally less satisfying than the Riesling though still with interest. By contrast, the 2008 Greystone Pinot Gris has a light, quite restrained nose. The palate has a degree of complexity with a strong leesy element adding texture.
The nose of the 2008 Greystone Gewurztraminer is intensely rose petal, gingerbread and lavender, not so much in the musk and lychee spectrum. The palate is dense yet supple, acidity in balance, but overall a deliciously soft, silky wine. Quite a whoosh of alcohol on the finish but there is also fruit concentration too, giving a powerful, medium dry expression of the variety.
From Waipara fruit, the 2008 Greystone Sauvignon Blanc has a light grassy aroma with hints of passionfruit, pineapple and citrus. Very dry and crisp, moderately concentrated and quite restrained in style, this is a lovely, easy-to-drink wine that would have scored more highly if the finish had been a little longer.
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2008 Sauvignon Blanc 12,000 Miles |
Wairarapa |
$17.00 |
15.0 |
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2008 Sauvignon Blanc |
Wairarapa |
$24.00 |
15.5 |
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2008 Pinot Gris 12,000 Miles |
Wairarapa |
$23.00 |
15.0 |
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2008 Pinot Gris |
Wairarapa |
$29.00 |
16.0 |
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2008 Viognier |
Wairarapa |
$29.00 |
16.5 |
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2008 Rosé |
Wairarapa |
$21.00 |
15.5 |
The entry level 12,000 Mile range offers a taste of Wairarapa at a modest price point. The 2008 12,000 Miles Sauvignon Blanc is clean and fresh, the nose offering canned pineapple and cut grass, with a soft, easy to drink flavour. Not too aggressive, it is soft and not too demanding. In contrast the main label 2008 Gladstone Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, with its pungent pineapple, passionfruit and capsicum has a tad more concentration and weight, balanced by firmer, citrus acidity. Consumers love clean, off dry pinot gris and the 2008 Pinot Gris 12,000 Miles will not disappoint. Thought quite neutral with only light baked pear and crumble flavours it is reasonably weighty and has a modest amount of residual sugar. The 2008 Gladstone Pinot Gris has a ripe pear, baked apple and fresh cream nose, soft silky flavours and a crisp finish. There is a leesy, old barrel ferment character which presumably is there to add complexity, but it has also no doubt bolstered the price which, at $29.00, seems quite pricey.
Viognier is a difficult variety to get right and Gladstone seem to be only halfway there. There are some lovely musky, jasmine characters but really not enough weight nor intensity to support the 14.0%. Perhaps with a bit more vine age and a more even vintage, there is potential here.
Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Malbec contributed to a vivid almost Barbie-esque vivid pink in the 2008 Gladstone Rosé. The nose has a ripe berryish edge; raspberry, cold tea and red cherry and the medium dry flavours are clean and bright. An attractively scented pink wine.
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2008 Gewurztraminer |
Marlborough |
$26.95 |
16.5 |
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2007 Pinot Noir |
Marlborough |
$28.95 |
16.5 |
The first sniff of the 2008 Lawson's Dry Hills Gewurztraminer was a slight cause for alarm. Where was the heady loveliness of past vintages ? Though the wine still has a lovely combination of musk, lychee and spice, there is a slight stalky character too. The palate is better, moderately rich and opulent, but lacks the sheer power and interest of the 2006. Reasonably lengthy but just lacking that special something.
In contrast the 2007 Lawson's Dry Hills Pinot Noir has a very enticing aroma with lots of rhubarb, dark plum and sweet spice. There is a touch of leafy there but . The palate is soft and sweet, juicy cherry fruit to the fore, and just a bit of noticeable oak coming through giving a slight mocha/coffee edge.