Grasshopper Rock Pinot Noir 2006

Grasshopper Rock is a relatively new Central Otago producer with lofty ambitions indeed – single vineyard high-end pinot noir production.  Usually this sends a frisson of fear through me as the resulting wines are invariably overworked and overpriced. 
However, I need not have felt nervous as Grasshopper Rock has produced a very nice wine and priced it sensibly as well, acknowledging that it is early days for the vines and wines.  The 2006 pinot noir is very fragrant, juicy even, packed with fruit – raspberry, strawberry, black cherry, rhubarb and black doris plum, plenty of spice, cinnamon, allspice, clove and almost peppery, attractive thread of sappy, stalky herbal notes and a final whiff of vanillin, slightly toasty oak. (There was something else also on nose and after tasting the wine, I looked at their website which mentions red licorice – and that was indeed the smell.  Power of suggestion maybe, but I was persuaded.)
The palate shows the exuberant fruit for which the region is known but it is done in an elegant, textural style so there is plenty to keep your interest.  Good balance with firm acidity and beautifully handled oak.  Very supple palate and good length with fine juicy fruit, a nice hint of stalkiness as per the nose, and all in a very well integrated packaged. At this stage the wine lacks a little intensity, presumably this may come with vineyard maturity (this is the first vintage) but the hallmarks of a very good wine are definitely there. It is an attractive wine, a pleasure to taste and drink and an auspicious beginning for Grasshopper Rock.
(EJ)
 

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