IWM January 2008

A new year and a new slew of wines to taste arriving on the doorstep. This month we are pleased to have a mix of the old and the new of New Zealand's wineries, spanning from the very largest to small little-known producers.

Hihi Wines
Emma Jenkins

Jane and I encountered Hihi Wines at Wine New Zealand 2007. We were intrigued when owner Andrew Nimmo said one of his guiding principles was to make wines in a style that people told him they wanted to drink. Perhaps even more astonishingly, he prices his wines so that customers can afford to drink them everyday.

We have been critical in the past of winemakers who claim not to drink their own wines. Whilst Nimmo cheerfully admits that he doesn't always want to drink Hihi wines every single day, he never loses sight of the fact that he is making wine to sell and so must be mindful of the tastes of his target audience.

After being bombarded by most other exhibitors, expounding their visions of greatness and complicated winemaking techniques, not to mention plenty of marketing claptrap, it was refreshing in the extreme to chat to the pragmatic and cheerful Nimmo.

And lo, he has indeed done what he said; after all, why else make a Chardonnay Gewurztraminer blend (priced at $16)? But it seems he isn't just making cheap and cheerful drops for the good citizens of Gisborne (most of his sales are local, although he now has on-trade customers on lofty Waiheke Island), he is also garnering some critical attention with Bronze and Silver medals for a number of his wines from shows such as the 2007 Bragato Wine Awards. Not bad at all for a man who as recently as 2002 was a commercial electricity manager in the UK. Nimmo emigrated to NZ six years ago and retrained in viticulture, citing the appeal of the wine industry and an awareness that it was on the rise. Hihi released its first wines in 2005, the same year Nimmo began supplying grapes to Nobilo Wine Group. There are currently around 6 hectares, planted in Chardonnay, Gewurztraminer and a range of trial varieties spanning Tempranillo, Nebbiolo, Mourvèdre, Dolcetto, Barbera, Syrah, Grenache (the first crop of Tempranillo is expected this vintage). Other varieties are sourced from local vineyards.

Nimmo makes Hihi's red wines but due to his viticulture commitments, and a preference for the red winemaking process, leaves the white wine making to Simon Groves. Nimmo prefers viticulture to winemaking but with a pragmatic view of the business, chooses to make wine as a way of adding value to his grapes, although with the eclectic collection of varieties, you would have to imagine he is having a bit of fun as well. This is borne out in the rather amusing names Nimmo gives his wines - ‘Sweet As' for the Chard/Gewurz blend, ‘Sirius' for his oaked Chardonnay (a play on both the star and it being the more serious of his two Chardonnays), and the mouthful of ‘Lock, Stock and Many Barrels', the result of a wine naming competition and a suitably many-barreled blend of Cabernet Franc, Pinotage and Merlot. This wine's varietal blend will change from year to year, Nimmo citing the 13 varieties in the Rhone's Chateauneuf-du-Pape as inspiration. One can only imagine what the future may bring there with the selection he will have to choose from once all his trials bear fruit.
Hihi Wines are probably not going to end up winning rave reviews in The Wine Advocate, but there is something very appealing about a producer who listens to his customers at the local Farmers' Market (where the idea for ‘Sweet As' came from), makes wine because he enjoys it and it makes him some extra money, has more varieties planted than most of Gisborne put together and at the end of it all produces very drinkable wines at very reasonable prices. Hihi Wines is indeed no laughing matter (sorry, couldn't resist); watch this space...

2007 ‘Sweet As' Chardonnay Gewurztraminer

Gisborne

$16.00

15.5

An interesting nose of melon and peach redolent of Chardonnay bit laced with light lychee/floral/spice notes more typical of Gewurztraminer, which although only 10% of the blend, certainly asserts its character. A medium palate with balance and nice weight, simple and unpretentious, seems to switch between the expected palate of chardonnay and gewurztraminer with each taste. A surprisingly appealing wine; my only previous encounter with this blend was of a cleanskin from a cellarhand having pumped over the wrong tank, but given its evident popularity (Nimmo has nearly sold through the 40 cases made) perhaps there is a niche for those who like chardonnay's body and depth but prefer a sweeter style wine and the spicy fruitiness of gewurztraminer.

2007 Chardonnay

Gisborne

$16.00

16.0

An unoaked style with plenty of ripe melon on the nose, very fruit-driven, clean, simple and appealing, a delicate palate with a hint of vanilla-poached peaches. Soft, medium bodied, moderate intensity and a pleasant balanced finish. Good quaffing Chardonnay, well-made.

2007 ‘Sirius' Chardonnay

Gisborne

$20.00

16.0

This is a lightly oaked chardonnay, not especially refined wood but obviously varietal with peachy, melony fruit, light nectarines and a hint of nuttiness, quite sweetly fruited. Medium bodied, a good honest chardonnay with some length in an easy-drinking style.

2007 Gewurztraminer

Gisborne

$16.00

15.5

Clearly varietal with lychee, rose petals and spice, hint of turkish delight, this is a lighter style gewurztraminer, medium in style with body coming more from the sugar and alcohol than richness of fruit. That said, it is certainly not lacking in fruit, just missing some of the unctuousness the region is capable of producing with the variety. Pleasant balance and moderate length add up to a cheerful wine, sure to please those who like a sweetie at a reasonable price.

2006 ‘Lock, Stock and Many Barrels'

Gisborne

$16.00

16.0

A blend of 50% cabernet franc, 35% pinotage and 15% merlot, this has an agreeably fruity nose with dark plums, red fruits, forest berries, a hint of cedar and spice. Uncomplicated wine, medium bodied, good length, nice touch of savouriness to the plummy vanillin finish, this offers very pleasant drinking now and should still look tidy in a year or so, making it a bit of a bargain.

2006 Merlot

Gisborne

$16.00

16.5

Pungent plummy nose with spice, cedar, dark berryfruit and more obvious (vanillin) oak than any of the other wines. Enough fruit to mop it up though, carrying through with rich ripe plumminess on the palate, medium bodied, spicy fruitcake, tad hottish on finish with a slightly coffee/mocha edge. Tannins are supple and ripe and balance between fruit, oak and alcohol is good. This is an honest red that ticks all the boxes for merlot and should be a pretty happy partner with most red meat dishes.

2006 Pinotage

Gisborne

$16.00

16.5

Nimmo notes that 2006 was a good year for this variety in Gisborne and certainly there is ample ripe juicy fruit, threaded with a savoury spiciness. Plums, black cherries, cassis and blackberries coupled with chocolate and leather are apparent on nose and palate and there is an attractive spicy finish. Tannins are moderate and balanced, oak is present but not overdone, although slightly less integrated than in the merlot and L, S & MB. An attractive wine, with an appealing, slightly feral character.

Muddy Water (http://www.muddywater.co.nz/)

The 2007 Muddy Water Dry Riesling: Fruit for this wine is sorted by hand to ensure no botrytis is present which gives a very fresh, pure character to the driest in the stable of three Rieslings on offer from Muddy Water. Already approachable with a gently perfumed nose; fruit-driven with fresh apple, lime and citrus blossom dominating, some honey and stonefruit with quite a pungent ripe apricot thread. The palate is dry with very clean fruit characters (again fresh ripe apple, and stonefruit), strong mineral notes and taut acidity lending structure and balance. Quite a delicate style though carrying plenty of flavour . Very good length. The 2007 Muddy Water James Hardwick Riesling has a pretty floral aroma with hints of blossom, beeswax, jasmine and a touch of talcum powder. There is 16 grams of residual sugar but the wine is only just off dry thanks to a pronounced lemony acidity. Good intensity on palate with strong apricot and mineral floral, glacé lime; the extra sugar makes a fatter wine which will no doubt appeal to many palates but it is not quite as well balanced as the dry wine. Again good length but perhaps not as complete as the Dry Riesling? The 2006 Muddy Water Riesling Unplugged has a deeper colour but then it is a year older and has some botrytis affected fruit. The nose has pronounced aromas of ripe peach, hunza apricot and jasmine with touches of honey and beeswax too. On the palate there is a wealth of fruit flavours, predominantly citrus, apple crumble, marmalade peel and ripe nectarine. With 55g/litre residual sugar you'd expect the wine to taste fairly sweet but thanks to knife-edge crystal acidity, the wine has a cleanness and poise. Excellent length.
The release notes state that although the 2006 Muddy Water Chardonnay was 100% barrel fermented, only 15% was new French oak. That small percentage has certainly stamped its personality on the wine, the nose dominated by aromas of nutmeg, cinnamon and bran biscuit. On the palate the wine is ripe and mealy, quite restrained in style and has almost hints of austerity despite richness of fruit. With time in the glass the fruit becomes more open and obvious. Quite a distinctive style, the wine has a noticeable thread of citrus acidity running through. Chardonnay made by a riesling lover? Very good length and well-balanced, suggesting this wine should cellar well in medium term. As the 2005 harvest was so poor for Muddy Water, the 2005 Muddy Water Chardonnay is a blend of 55% Marlborough, 31% Nelson and 14% own vineyard fruit. Whilst finely crafted, the wine lacks the taut edge of the 2006. Perfumed, pretty aroma, not as buttery as 2006. Nose shows rich stonefruit, hint of citrus, especially grapefruit and light toasty oak; palate has nutty richness, quite intense grapefruit and stonefruit palate, good intensity and length. An attractive wine, benefiting from bottle age and probably offering another year or two's peak drinking but somehow lacking a certain something.
The 2006 Muddy Water Pinot Noir has a deep garnet colour and a lovely cranberry and dried herb aroma with notes of forest floor. The wine is already approachable and a good depth of spiced fruits (cherry, plum, rhubarb, blueberries) and a slightly savoury, sappy edge adding texture and interest. Good concentration without being too extracted. A great deal of delicacy. Finishes on a firm dry note. A well-made wine, very appealing drinking. The 2006 Muddy Water Slowhand Pinot Noir is more backward, with a fragrant, spicy (vanilla, clove, cinnamon, allspice) nose, mostly berry fruit at this early stage with some light plum and poached rhubarb but showing potential for complexity to develop over time. Moderate weight and good intensity, attractive savoury fruit, ripe sappiness, fine acidity and texture, great balance and sensitive use of oak (16 months oak ageing) which is very well-integrated. Savoury with a dark plum and berry note. Firm and structured as opposed to fruity and generous. Less approachable right now and built for the long haul. Plenty of potential.
Of the few hardy souls making pinotage in this country, Muddy Water is generally regarded as one of the best and most consistent. The 2006 Muddy Water Pinotage is a law unto itself. The nose has a wonderful wild, earthy character with hints of salami, black pastille and blood. The label states 15% alcohol, which is pretty fierce, but this is a wine that needs alcohol to carry off the funky flavours and give an impression of sweetness. The warm, inviting nose leads to a fleshy, fruit palate with good acidity, nicely integrated oak and dusty dry tannins leading to a smokey bacon finish. Good length.
Our one gripe with Muddy Water funnily enough lies outside the bottle, not within. On the back of the Unplugged, the notes state "...making the wine suitable to drink on its own or with certain foods." Certain foods? Which ones? Hardly very useful information for the consumer. And it gets worse - "...selected hand-harvested ensued (sic) that only clusters infected with botrytis were selected..." For a company whose mission statement is ‘Handcrafted. No Compromise', such sloppy English and nonsensical statements disappoint.

Stoneleigh Vineyards (http://www.stoneleigh.co.nz/)

The Blocks

2007 Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough

$16.00

15.5

Another new label out of Marlborough, the 2007 The Blocks Sauvignon Blanc is sweet fruited, tropical style, some herbal/nettle notes. Rich, quite sweet palate, would not be surprised to see a slightly high residual sugar level which is perhaps deliberate to attract a wider appreciative audience but does give a finish that is rather less than refreshing. Well-made, with good fruit and some texture but lacks intensity and class to take it to next level, although it is priced at the right level for its quality, (perhaps even punches above somewhat) given what generally lines the shelves.

Mudhouse Wines (http://www.mudhouse.co.nz/)

2007 Sauvignon Blanc 2007 Swan Reserve Sauvignon Blanc

Marlborough Marlborough

$16.95 $24.95

16.0 17.0

The 2007 Mudhouse Sauvignon Blanc has a very sweaty whiff of armpit on the nose (of someone likeable, thankfully), followed by the typical Marlborough collection of cut grass, capsicum (red and green), pineapple and guava, although the general impression is more of a herbal than tropical spectrum. Ripe palate, only moderate intensity but overall good balance. A drier style with nice balance and length but lacking the extra intensity to step it up a notch in score. Finishes with grassy, green capsicum and wet stone. The 2007 Mudhouse Swan Sauvignon Blanc is a more pungent version of the standard wine, with an inviting nose of good rich tropical fruit notes interwoven with classic gooseberry, sweet hay, fresh mown grass and again a touch of distinct armpit. Smooth, quite soft palate (in the context of the direct acidity of the variety), good depth and length, some wet stone, fruity herbal finish but also a slightly sweet, tropical fruit finish. In common with the Stoneleigh Sauvignons, the better wine has a slightly lower alcohol level.

Montana Wines (http://www.montana.co.nz/)

2007 Terroir Matawhero Riverpoint Gewurztraminer

Gisborne

$20.95

16.0

Montana's Terroir wines have the tag 'Super Premium, Sub Regional wines' and are best described as site specific, rather than single vineyard. The 2007 Montana Matawhero Riverpoint Gewurztraminer is pungently varietal and it would be difficult to mistake this wine for any other variety with its very luscious nose, full of turkish delight, candied fruits and lychee, with almost a floral orange blossom/candyfloss note creeping in. Definitely medium in style, with structure given by well-defined acidity (particularly for variety) but while the wine is moderately intense and offering quite good length, the sweetness seems slightly out of balance and not quite backed up by enough intensity of fruit. There is a slightly hot finish, giving a wine that seems higher than the 13.0% stated on the label. By no means a bad example of the variety or region but doesn't quite offer a showcase of either, as presumably is the intention of the Terroir Series.

Blind River Wines (http://www.blindriver.co.nz/)

2006 Awatere Pinot Noir

Marlborough

$36.00

16.5

A new label from Marlborough's Awatere Valley. The accompanying wine notes list Stu Marfell as the winemaker which is an encouraging sign as he has certainly produced some good wines at Vavasour. The 2006 Blind River Pinot Noir has a raspberry garnet colour, a light spicy/stalky somewhat sappy nose but also surprisingly fragrant and floral, with almost pure strawberry fruit aromas. Sweet fruit palate, slightly simple but appealing enough in a strong fruit-driven way, the sweetness evident throughout entire palate length. Moderate intensity, not especially complex but the wine is likely to be well received due to palate being dominated by rich, ripe fruit. Slightly hot finish, very floral, almost violet with strawberry/raspberry fruit.

Surveyor Thomson Wines http://www.surveyorthomas.co.nz/

2005 Pinot Noir

Central Otago

$35.00

16.5

Named after the owner's great-great grandfather, John Turnbull Thomson, who was New Zealand's first Surveyor General. The 2005 Surveyor Thomas Pinot Noir is a prettily coloured wine, soft garnet with a nose of slightly herbal, slightly fungal notes layered across spicy red plum and red berry fruit. Cinnamon and some toasty barrel notes add a bit of extra perfume. The palate has very sweetly spiced fruit. A hint of vanilla, poached berries and a slightly stalky finish adds a more savoury character than the initial sweet fruit attack would suggest. Moderate depth, a very drinkable style but a slightly odd finish that echoes the notes of the nose with an almost old wood character.

Camshorn Vineyards (http://www.pernod-ricard-nz.com/)

2007 Classic Riesling

Waipara

$21.00

15.5

One of the multitude of Pernod Ricard labels, Camshorn Vineyard wines hail from Waipara. There are two Rieslings, a dry wine from clay soils and the Classic, a medium style made from fruit grown on the Glasnevin Gravels, which are meant to lend ‘spicy stonefruit and mineral characters' to the wine. For once the back labels seem to be telling the truth, as when tasting the 2007 Camshorn Classic Riesling wine blind our notes indeed reflected nectarine and peachy notes and definite spice, although this we attributed to botrytis rather than the Gravels. The wine also shows clean lime and citrus notes, ripely fruited on the palate but somewhat lacking in intensity. There is a light mineral character on the finish, along with honeyed apricots and the overall impression is of a pleasant but not especially distinguished wine in a lighter style.



Alpha Domus (http://www.alphadomus.co.nz/)

2007 Viognier 2007 Leonarda Late Harvest Semillon 375ml

Hawke's Bay Hawke's Bay

$27.00 $19.50

16.5 16.0

The 2007 Alpha Domus Viognier has a heady aroma of orange peel, blossom and honeysuckle whilst on the palate the ripe tropical, almost perfumed flavour is carried by noticeable alcohol. When first tasted there seemed perceptible sweetness (the release notes state only 4.0g/litre) but having been opened for a couple of hours, the wine unfolded, allowing the flavours to emerge and the sweetness seemed less obtrusive. Good varietal definition, the fruit supported by subtle mealy oak. The 2007 Alpha Domus Leonarda Late Harvest Semillon has a moderately concentrated nose of tropical fruit, peaches and pineapple with a distinctive citrus/mandarin orange edge. The palate is medium sweet, clear and well-defined fruit with a touch of honeycomb and spun sugar. Drink now.

Winegrowers of Ara (http://www.winegrowersofara.co.nz/)

 

 

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